THE ARTISANAL CRAFT BEHIND OUR FOOTWEAR
Stories / Craft

THE ARTISANAL CRAFT BEHIND OUR FOOTWEAR

Just thirty minutes outside Naples, in Gricignano di Aversa, an industrial district synonymous with Italian shoemaking, stands a factory that quietly preserves a rarified craft. 

The Italian countryside region has historically been home to dozens of footwear manufacturers, though today only a handful remain. Among them is the workshop responsible for producing the FRESCOBOL CARIOCA footwear range: a fourth-generation family shoemaking business. 

Drawing on a century of traditional technique and savoir-faire, each of our shoes is exclusively handcrafted to fit the FRESCOBOL CARIOCA mould. Local and specialised métier is essential to us; all employees are home-grown experts in the field, and extensive research is consistently conducted into each element of the final product. Each stage of production is manned by a specialist who has dedicated their life to understanding their respective technique. 

Crafting the Upper

The handling of leathers and suedes is often the most delicate part of manufacturing. Hides are especially selected, then laid flat on a cutting surface where technicians digitally position each pattern piece on a screen. This system allows them to optimise placement, reduce waste, and ensure that every section of leather is cut with absolute precision.

Once cut, the individual leather components undergo several preparatory steps. The hides are thinned, where necessary, to ensure flexibility and ease of wear. They are then shaped to match their bespoke design, and reinforced at points to strengthen the final shape. 

The pieces that form the tomaia – the shoe’s upper – are stitched together using traditional sewing machines. At this stage, the components are carefully organised by size and colour and stored in labelled boxes before moving to the next line of production.

Reinforcing the Structure

The next phase is what brings the shoe to life. The stitched upper is stretched over its forma, a foot-shaped mould that defines its distinctive silhouette. A specialised machine featuring a laser alignment system ensures the upper is perfectly centred before a heated press shapes it for around twenty seconds, solidifying the structure. 

To keep the leather pristine, each shaped upper is immediately placed in a clear protective polybag to shield it from dust or marks. The toe area is strengthened using a contrafforte, a reinforcement component which is glued into place, and again pressed under heat to secure its form.

Crafting the Sole

The soles themselves are prepared individually to each style of shoe. Our Leme Resort Slippers are uniquely endowed with a leather sole, allowing for both enhanced flexibility in its performance and a more formal aesthetic look. Following a similarly intricate process to its Suede upper, a leather sole will mould itself around the wearer’s foot over time, adapting to a custom fit with each wear.

Our Vela Loafers’ and Lapa Sneakers’ soles are crafted from cushioned rubber soles. These are cleaned using a specialised solution, then placed in a red-light heating ‘oven’ to bring the material to the optimal temperature for bonding. Once heated, the sole is carefully positioned by hand following the alignment marks on the leather. The shoe then moves into a press that firmly seals the sole to the upper, creating a durable and high-traction grip with each step. 

Assembling the Shoe

To assemble the shoe, the tomaia remains on the mould while it is stretched and temporarily nailed to the insole. Before attaching the sole, technicians mark the exact placement with a leather-specific pen. These reference marks guide the assembly team in aligning the sole perfectly with the upper; they are removed later, in the finishing stages.

The attachment process combines two techniques: the sole is glued for immediate adhesion and then stitched to create a durable bond. This dual construction ensures long-term resilience and flexibility, ensuring the shoes can travel and adapt with their wearer.

Finishing Touches

Quality control accompanies every stage of production. A technical specification sheet travels alongside the components through each phase, ensuring each detail aligns with the design requirements. A final inspection takes place during packaging, where every pair is reviewed once more, before leaving the factory.

Just before boxing, the shoes receive a protective spray of water-repellent treatment. Only then are they packed and prepared for shipment. Each carefully considered step culminates into bespoke footwear – designed to feel like second nature and travel with the day.


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